A. Yes and no. Kawasaki has now based a number of motorcycles around the parallel twin motor fitted to the Ninja 650R. Briefly stated, the Ninja 650R and the ER-6F are exactly the same motorcycle. In North America and New Zealand the motorcycle is marketed as the Ninja 650R and in Europe, South Africa, Australia and parts of Southeast Asia it is sold as the ER-6F.
The ER-6N is a naked version of the same model and was only sold in some markets (read not in the USA before 2009). Other than different fairings, instrument panels and headlight assembly the only physical difference (according to Kawasaki literature) between the two models is the rake and trail:
ER-6N - 24.5 deg & 102mm
ER-6F (Ninja 650R) - 25 deg & 106mm
ER-6N - 24.5 deg & 102mm
ER-6F (Ninja 650R) - 25 deg & 106mm
It is possible that physically both chassis are identical as this difference could be attributed to the height of the front forks in the triple clamps. The Ninja 650R (ER-6F) was delivered ex factory with the forks set so that the caps are flush with Steering Stem Head. The Kawasaki manual indicates that the fork caps should sit approximately 10mm above the top of the Steering Stem Head, this will alter rake and trail.
So to sum up, other than some decals, all parts designated ER-6F or Ninja 650R are interchangeable. Use caution when ordering bodywork parts for the ER-6N. As both models have the same motor, brakes and drive, you should be relatively safe with these items.
The Versys (short for VERsatile SYSstem) is a “dual purpose” model fitted with the same parallel twin engine, however major differences do exist with the chassis and bodywork parts. There will likely be some common components but it would pay to check the parts catalogue before ordering Versys parts for your Ninja 650R (ER-6F) or ER-6N and vice versa.
Model designators are as follows:
| Model | Year | Description |
| EX650A6F | 2006 | Ninja 650R (ER-6F) North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia |
| EX650A6FL | 2006 | Ninja 650R California |
| EX650A6S | 2006 | ER-6F Europe, South Africa |
| EX650B6F | 2006 | ER-6F fitted with ABS (anti-lock brake system) |
| ER650A6F | 2006 | ER-6N New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia |
| ER650A6S | 2006 | ER-6N Europe, South Africa |
| ER650B6F | 2006 | ER-6N fitted with ABS |
| EX650A7F | 2007 | Ninja 650R (ER-6F) North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia |
| EX650A7FL | 2007 | Ninja 650R California |
| EX650A7S | 2007 | ER-6F Europe, South Africa |
| EX650B7F | 2007 | ER-6F fitted with ABS (anti-lock brake system) |
| ER650A7F | 2007 | ER-6N New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia |
| ER650A7S | 2007 | ER-6N Europe, South Africa |
| ER650B7F | 2007 | ER-6N fitted with ABS |
| KLE650A7F | 2007 | Versys |
| KLE650B7F | 2007 | Versys fitted with ABS |
| EX650A8F | 2008 | Ninja 650R (ER-6F) North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia |
| EX650A8FL | 2008 | Ninja 650R California |
| EX650A8S | 2008 | ER-6F Europe, South Africa |
| EX650B8F | 2008 | ER-6F fitted with ABS (anti-lock brake system) |
| ER650A8F | 2008 | ER-6N New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia |
| ER650A8S | 2008 | ER-6N Europe, South Africa |
| ER650B8F | 2008 | ER-6N fitted with ABS |
| KLE650A8F | 2008 | Versys |
| KLE650B8F | 2008 | Versys fitted with ABS |
| EX650C9F | 2009 | Ninja 650R (ER-6F) North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia |
| EX650C9FL | 2009 | Ninja 650R California |
| EX650D9F | 2009 | ER-6F fitted with ABS (anti-lock brake system) |
| ER650C9F | 2009 | ER-6N North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia |
| ER650D9F | 2009 | ER-6N fitted with ABS |
| KLE650A9F | 2009 | Versys |
| KLE650A9FL | 2009 | Versys California |
| KLE650B9F | 2009 | Versys fitted with ABS |
| EX650CAF | 2010 | Ninja 650R (ER-6F) North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia |
| EX650CAFL | 2010 | Ninja 650R California |
| EX650DAF | 2010 | ER-6F fitted with ABS (anti-lock brake system) |
| ER650CAF | 2010 | ER-6N North America, New Zealand, Australia, Malaysia |
| ER650DAF | 2010 | ER-6N fitted with ABS |
| KLE650CAF | 2010 | Versys |
| KLE650CAFL | 2010 | Versys California |
| KLE650DAF | 2010 | Versys fitted with ABS |
Other than the different bodywork colours offered to buyers there does not appear to be any improved features between the 2006, 2007 and 2008 models, however different markets do appear to get differing frame and bodywork colour combinations.
The 2009 and 2010 model is an updated “2nd Generation” bike from Kawasaki. It features new styling and an updated suspension and engine mounts. Bodywork and chassis is completely different from earlier models although the engine and a number of accessories remain the same.
A. ColorRite sells touch-up paint, available in pen, jar, aerosols and tin quantities. ColorRite touch-up paint is available in the following colours:
2006 Models
| Colour | Code | Description |
| Ebony Black | 602 | Bodywork colour – black/silver two-tone |
| Galaxy Silver Type #2 | 474 | Bodywork colour – silver/gray two-tone and black/silver two-tone |
| Metallic Graystone | KM | Bodywork colour – silver/gray two-tone |
| Frame Persimmon Red | 796 | Frame colour – all red pieces |
2007 Models
| Colour | Code | Description |
| Ebony Black | 602 | Wheel colour |
| Metallic Phantom Silver | 458 | Frame colour |
| Metallic Graystone | KM | Wheel colour |
| Candy Plasma Blue | | Bodywork colour |
| Passion Red | | Bodywork colour |
2008 Models
| Colour | Code | Description |
| Frame Persimmon Red | 796 | Wheel colour on black model |
| Metallic Phantom Silver | 458 | Swingarm on black model |
| Flat Stoic Black | 8F | Frame/swingarm/wheels on red and green model |
| Lime Green | 617 | Bodywork colour |
| Metallic Diablo Black | 17K | Bodywork colour |
| Sunbeam Red | 639 | Bodywork colour |
2009 Models
| Colour | Code | Description |
| Ebony Black | 602 | Wheel colour |
| Metallic Phantom Silver | 458 | Frame, swingarm, forks and all silver accents on green and red model |
| Flat Super Black | 18R | Lower cowl, engine, frame covers |
| Lime Green | 617 | Bodywork colour |
| Metallic Diablo Black | 17K | Bodywork colour |
| Passion Red | | Bodywork colour |
2010 Models
| Colour | Code | Description |
| Ebony Black | 602 | Wheel colour |
| Lime Green | | Bodywork colour |
Kawasaki UK have advised some owners that touch-up paint can be ordered using the following part numbers:
Ebony (H8) – P/N 56019-108-H8
Galaxy Silver Type 2 (474) – P/N 56019-108-474
Vivid Yellow (789) – P/N 56019-108-789
Frame Gold (793) – P/N 56019-108-793
This would appear to indicate that the base Kawasaki part number for a 1/12 litre of touch up paint is 56019-108 with the last dash number representing the paint colour code, it is likely that other touch-up paint colours could be ordered through Kawasaki if the colour code is known. Contact Kawasaki in your country or your local Kawasaki dealer to confirm that it is available.
Owners report close matches have been made with the following paints:
Persimmon Red (796) – Ford Lacquer Touch-up Paint (automotive refinishing paint) Toreador Red Colour Code ALBZ-19500-6758A FL, FN or Dupli-Color NG FM 344 Toreador Red Metallic (FL Ford).
Metallic Phantom Silver (458) – Rust-oleum Metallic – Silver Metallic (7271830) or Rust-oleum Professional Metallic – Silver Metallic (244493) spray can.
A. The “Passing button is only available on UK and European models
A. The U lock is a U shaped lock used to secure your motorcycle against theft, the U Lock is an optional accessory and has to be purchased from your Kawasaki Dealer or an accessory retailer.
A. Grab handles are an optional accessory and have has to be purchased from your Kawasaki Dealer or Kawasaki parts retailer, the required part numbers are as follows:
L/H Grab Handle – 46075-0033
R/H Grab Handle – 46075-0034
Fitment is simple, the hex screws and washers should already be in place under the seat pad.
A. This is a drain hose for the fuel tank overflow cavity, this cavity is the inner area around your fuel cap and the drain prevents fuel spillage harming your fuel tank’s exterior paint if the fuel tank is accidentally overfilled.
A. Helmet tethers are plastic coated wires that are bolted at one end to sub-frame under the passenger seat. There purpose is to attach helmets to your motorcycle when you are parked. Simply take the seat off, pass the tether through your helmet buckle and attach the eyelet to the hook on the sub-frame. With the seat reattached your helmet is secured.
Some models sold in states (and possibly countries) outside California, USA, came without helmet tethers fitted. Pressure from owners with these models forced Kawasaki USA to issue a Factory Directed Repair (FDM #1). Owners received a “recall notice” letter with details on having the helmet tethers fitted free of charge. Contact your Kawasaki Dealer if your motorcycle doesn’t have helmet tethers too arrange for a kit to be fitted.
Q. My motorcycle makes a high pitched whining or hissing noise when it parked for a short period. What is this noise?
A. This is the gas tank venting due to heat build-up, probably from the engine. There have also been reports of this occurring when the motorcycle is parked in strong sunlight. It is completely normal.
Q. I have notice that there is an electrical connector under the front sprocket cover on the LHS of my motorcycle which is not connected to anything. What is this for and is it OK?
A. This connector is for an oxygen sensor which is not fitted to models in some countries including the USA. The oxygen sensor is fitted to European models as standard to make it a closed loop EFI system and comply with Euro 3 emission standards. That it is not connected is normal.
Q. My motorcycle makes a loud buzzing noise at lower RPM. It’s noticeable at particular RPM ranges and it’s getting worse. What is this noise?
A. This is the infamous “fairing buzz”. No definite cause has been agreed by owners, its actual cause may in fact vary from one motorcycle to another. Likely areas are:
The Upper Cowling (centre) and Headlight Assembly
L/H and R/H Main Cowling Inner Panels
L/H and R/H Main Cowling Upper Trim Panels
Kawasaki has issued a Factory Authorised Repair (FAR) comprising installation paperwork and self adhesive damper kits P/N 99999-0093 and P/N 99999-0095. A copy of the FAR (EX650A6F Installation Instructions for Cowling Panel Vibration Damper Kits) and a user guide for those attempting to solve the problem are located on this website in the Downloads area.
Kawasaki have also recently issued another kit (P/N 99999-0097), to date what this kit contains is not known. The “fairing buzz” is a warranty issue and is being addressed by Kawasaki. In the first instance you should contact you Kawasaki Dealer and ask them to remedy this fault.
Briefly, if you wish to carry out the fix yourself use the loop side of self-adhesive Velcro tape to cover any chaff marks found on the fairings and self-adhesive foam around the inside of the centre fairing between the centre fairing and the headlight assembly.
Q. On my Ninja 650R (ER-6F) the rear vision mirrors are not very good; all I can see are my forearms. What can I do to improve them?
A. A German company SW-Motech sell mirror extenders (sometimes called mirror wideners, P/N SVL.08.500.100). These devices extend the length of the mirror arm by approximately 25-35mm (1-1.5 inches). Use care when fitting as the original hex head pivot bolt (which must be removed) for the OEM mirror stalk is very tight. Use a 3/8 drive socket set power bar and a hex drive socket of the correct size for removal.
Owners of the SW-Motech extenders do report that over time the “black” powder coating fads to a slightly bluish tinge.
Another option is inverted mirrors, pictures and plans for manufacture of a bracket are located on this website in the Downloads area. Some owners have fitted standard mirrors, these can mount in the brake and clutch lever brackets as the Ninja 650R (ER-6F) uses the same brackets as the ER-6N. Bar end mirrors are also another option.
Some owners have fitted Kawasaki ZX-14R mirrors. These require minor modification to the base of the stalks for clearance. These mirrors when fitted are approximately 1 inch wider and slightly lower than stock.
As of 2008 Kawasaki have introduced there own Mirror Extenders as an optional accessory (P/N 119MIS0002) and can be purchased through your Kawasaki Dealer. These Mirror Extenders appear very similar to the SW-Motech items and function in the same fashion.
As mentioned the ER-6N has its mirrors fitted to the brake and clutch lever perches, there are mirror extenders available for this model as well. SW-Motech (P/N SVL.00.505.101) and Kawasaki (P/N 119MIS0001).
Owners advise that 2009-10 mirrors fit the 2006-08 models and provide better visibility due to their additional length.
Q. My motorcycle makes a loud clunk and there is a slight lurch when I shift it into first gear from neutral. Why does it do this and is it OK?
A. The motorcycle gearbox (sometimes referred to as the transmission) is a constant mesh sequential design, unlike a car that uses synchromesh to change gears and allows the driver to select any gear at any time, on a motorcycle the rider can only select the next highest or lowest gear. The term constant mesh refers to the fact that there are two gears (a drive gear and a driven gear) for each gear change (twelve in total for the Ninja 650R) and all these gears are constantly engaged with their respective partners.
The gears are arranged on two shafts, the six drive gears on the mainshaft are connected to the engine via the clutch and the six driven gears on the countershaft are connected individually to the sprocket that drives the chain. All the drive gears are splined onto the mainshaft and all the driven gears rotate freely. A gear is selected by the use of a dog, one for each gear. Each dog is splined onto the countershaft and slides along the spline, as they do so they engage the driven gear connecting it to the countershaft. Shift forks move the dogs in and out of gear.
The oil bath clutch has some drag, especially when the oil is cold, and doesn’t disengage all the way, this allows the mainshaft to spin in neutral. The countershaft however is stationary as it’s connected to the rear wheel. Selecting first gear you move the shift fork, sliding the dog along the countershaft until it engages the first gear cluster…. Clunk, lurch!
Don’t worry, it’s completely normal. Clutch free-play (2-3 mm or 0.08-0.12 in) may need adjusting or a change of engine oil (to another brand or viscosity) may be needed if the clunk and lurch becomes too violent. Some owners have found that this “problem” improves or completely disappears after the break-in period.
A. The Service Manual states that the engine should idle between 1250 RPM and 1350 RPM. Idle speed adjustment can be carried by rotating the adjuster screw (black knob) on the right hand side of the motorcycle just aft of the main fairing above the clutch housing. Also check your throttle grip play, this should be between 2-3 mm (0.08-0.12 in). On the ER-6N, idle speed adjustment can be carried out by rotating the knurled knob on the right hand side of the motorcycle just aft of the throttle quadrant below the fuel tank.
A. Check all your fluid levels with the motorcycle level, a motorcycle stand (sometimes called a track or paddock stand) is best as this is a known vertical for the bike to sit. If the fluid levels are checked in this same position each time any fluid loss will quickly become apparent.
Oil – SAE 10W-40 or 10W-50 meeting specs API SE, SF, SG or API SH, SJ, SL with JASO MA. Check several minutes after the engine has been run, oil level between the upper and lower marks on the sight glass. The recommended oil viscosity may vary dependant on the operating climate. Always ensure you are using the correct specification motorcycle specific oil. Don’t use cheap oil, it will cost you in the long run. I always use “brand name” oils.
Coolant – Ethylene glycol mixed 50% (1:1) with distilled water. Check with the engine cold, fluid level between the F and L lines in the overflow tank.
A. The owners manual recommends tyres are checked daily and when cold:
Front – 32 PSI (225 kPa)
Rear – 36 PSI (250 kPa)
Wear limits are as follows:
Front minimum tread depth – 1 mm (0.04 in)
Rear minimum tread depth under 130 kph (80 mph) – 2 mm (0.08 in)
Rear minimum tread depth over 130 kph (80 mph) – 3 mm (0.12 in)
A. Service items and their frequency are detailed in the following tables (taken from the Owners Manual), items in the 1000 km (600 mile) column are carried when the motorcycle reaches that distance. Items in the remaining columns are carried out when the motorcycle reaches those distances and above 36,000 km (24,000 miles) the frequency is repeated (except for the 1000 km / 600 mile service).
| | Frequency – Time (years) and Distance (km/miles) whichever occurs first | |||||||
| Task | Time (Years) | 1000 (600) | 6000 (4000) | 12000 (7500) | 18000 (12000) | 24000 (15000) | 30000 (20000) | 360000 (24000) |
| Engine | | | | | | | | |
| Clean air cleaner element | | | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect valve clearances | | | | | | * | | |
| Inspect and adjust throttle control system (play, smooth return, no drag) | 1 year | * | | * | | * | | * |
| Check and adjust engine vacuum synchronisation | | | | * | | * | | * |
| Check and adjust idle speed | | * | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect for fuel leaks (fuel hose and pipes) | 1 year | * | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect fuel hoses for damage | 1 year | * | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect fuel hose installation for condition | 1 year | * | | * | | * | | * |
| Check coolant level | 1 year | * | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect for coolant leaks | 1 year | * | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect radiator hoses for damage | 1 year | * | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect radiator hose installation for condition | 1 year | * | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect air suction system for damage | | | | * | | * | | * |
| Clutch and Drive Chain | | | | | | | | |
| Inspect clutch operation (play, engagement, disengagement) | | * | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect drive chain for condition and lubricate # | Inspect and lubricate every 600 km (400 miles) | |||||||
| Inspect drive chain for slack (correct tension) # | Check every 1000 km (600 miles) | |||||||
| Inspect drive chain for wear # | | | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect drive chain guide for wear | | | | * | | * | | * |
| Wheels and Tyres | | | | | | | | |
| Check tyre air pressure | 1 year | | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect wheels and tyres for damage | | | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect tyre tread for wear and abnormal wear | | | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect wheel bearings for damage | 1 year | | | * | | * | | * |
| Brake Systems | | | | | | | | |
| Inspect for brake fluid leaks | 1 year | * | * | * | * | * | * | * |
| Inspect brake hose for damage | 1 year | * | * | * | * | * | * | * |
| Inspect brake pads for wear # | | | * | * | * | * | * | * |
| Inspect brake hose installation for condition | 1 year | * | * | * | * | * | * | * |
| Check brake fluid levels | 6 months | * | * | * | * | * | * | * |
| Inspect brake operation (effectiveness, play, drag) | 1 year | * | * | * | * | * | * | * |
| Inspect brake light switches for operation | | * | * | * | * | * | * | * |
| Suspensions | | | | | | | | |
| Inspect front forks and rear shock absorber for operation (damping and smooth stroke) | | | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect front forks and rear shock absorber for oil leaks | 1 year | | | * | | * | | * |
| Steering System | | | | | | | | |
| Inspect steering for play | 1 year | * | | * | | * | | * |
| Lubricate steering stem bearings | 2 years | | | | | * | | |
| Electrical System | | | | | | | | |
| Inspect lights and switches for operation | 1 year | | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect headlight aiming (alignment) | 1 year | | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect side stand switch operation | 1 year | | | * | | * | | * |
| Inspect engine stop switch operation | 1 year | | | * | | * | | * |
| Chassis | | | | | | | | |
| Lubricate chassis parts | 1 year | | | * | | * | | * |
| Check bolts and nuts for tightness | | * | | * | | * | | * |
| # Service more frequently when operating in severe condition (dusty wet, muddy, high speed frequent start/stop | ||||||||
| | Frequency – Time (years) and Distance (km/miles) whichever occurs first | |||||
| Task | Time (Years) | 1000 (600) | 12000 (7500) | 24000 (15000) | 360000 (24000) | 48000 (30000) |
| Component and Fluid Replacement | | | | | | |
| Air cleaner element # | 2 years | | | | | |
| Engine oil # | 1 year | * | * | * | * | * |
| Engine oil filter | 1 year | * | * | * | * | * |
| Fuel hoses | 4 years | | | | | * |
| Coolant | 3 years | | | | * | |
| Radiator hoses and o-rings | 3 years | | | | * | |
| Brake hoses | 4 years | | | | | * |
| Brake fluid (front and rear) | 2 years | | | * | | * |
| Rubber parts of brake master cylinders and callipers | 4 years | | | | | |
| Spark plugs | | | * | * | * | * |
| # Service more frequently when operating in severe condition (dusty wet, muddy, high speed frequent start/stop | ||||||
Q. My dealer tells me that the valve clearances should be checked and re-shimmed at the 1000 km (600 mile) service, is this right?
A. No. The valve clearance check is not called up by Kawasaki until the 24,000 km (15,000 mile) service. Seek independent advice or contact Kawasaki if your dealer insists or charges you for this inspection during the first service.
* Note: There is a discrepancy between Owners Manual and the Service Manual. The Owners Manual and the Service Manual for both the Ninja 650R (ER-6F) and the ER-6N both differ on when the valve clearance check should be carried out. The Owners Manual for all models indicates 24,000 km (15,000 miles) and the Service Manual indicates 42,000 km (26,000 miles). Which takes precedence is open to debate however I would recommend that owners err on the conservative side and carry out the check at 24,000 km (15,000 miles) as other Kawasaki Service Manuals for bikes of this era use this interval.
A. Use clean, fresh, unleaded petrol with anti-knock index of 87. Petrol’s octane rating is a measurement of the fuels ability to resist knocking. Countries display their fuel octane at the service station pumps in different ways. Some display the Research Octane Number (RON), others display Motor Octane Number (MON). The anti-knock index is:
(RON + MON) = Pump Octane Number (PON) 87
2
To summarise, what this means if the fuel in your country is displayed at the pump using the RON index, use 91, if it is PON use 87. In the USA, service station pumps display PON, most owners use 87, in New Zealand and Australia they utilise RON, use 91 and in the UK, 95 is the normal grade.
A. Take off the seat and remove the two Phillips head screws that hold on the tank/seat side trim. Remove the trim by pulling it out of the clips which hold it in place along the side, take care not to loose the rubber spacers on the fuel tank seam at the forward end of the trim.
Remove the two 12 mm bolts that hold the seat front locator “U” bracket in place. Gently lift the tank and support it with a small wooden block approx 2” high. On the left hand side disconnect the electrical connector to the fuel pump and the fuel tank cap vent line (black hose). On the right hand side disconnect the main fuel hose by sliding the red locking tab on the female connector (hose side closest to the engine) out until it reaches its stops. Support the male connector (hose side, closest to the tank) and pull the connectors apart. A small amount of fuel may leak from the connectors but the tank will not drain.
A small flat blade screwdriver may be needed to open the locking tab. The fuel tank can now be removed by sliding it aft off the two rubber mounts on the front frame. Installation is the reverse procedure.
A. The only suspension adjustment that can be made to a stock Ninja 650R (ER-6F) or ER-6N is the rear shock absorber preload. Owners rarely need to adjust their preload, it is set once for their weight and then generally never touched again. Rebound and compression are properties that can smooth out the ride or make the motorcycle firmer. Unfortunately these features are not adjustable on this motorcycle without replacing the stock rear shock absorber or making changes to the front forks.
Changes that can be made to the front forks include replacing the fork oil with oil of a different viscosity, fitting emulators (emulators are variable orifice valves that sit on top of the damping rods) or fitting replacement springs.
A simple method of setting up the rear shock absorber preload is to rotating the adjuster on the shock absorber to the correct position (1 thru 7) based on your weight including riding gear.
| Position | Weight (kg) | Weight (lbs) |
| 1 | 50 | 110 |
| 2 | 60 | 135 |
| 3 | 75 | 165 |
| 4 | 85 | 185 |
| 5 | 95 | 205 |
| 6 | 105 | 225 |
| 7 | 115 | 245 |
These numbers are only approximate so play around with the adjustment until you find a setting that suites you.
Another method is to measure sag.
Using two assistants, lift the rear of the motorcycle off the ground (you could also lift the motorcycle completely off the ground with the use of a jack under the motor). With the motorcycle upright measure from the centre of the rear axle to a fixed point above, this is measurement L1. Place the motorcycle back on the ground and exercise the suspension a couple of times to remove any stickiness in the shock absorber. Again with the motorcycle upright measure from the centre of the rear axle to the same fixed point used before, this is measurement L2. Now sit on the motorcycle in full riding gear with your feet on the pegs, again exercise the suspension. With the bike supported in the upright position by an assistant measure from the centre of the rear axle to that fixed point, this is measurement L3.
Rider sag is the difference between L1 and L3, this should be approximately 30-40 mm (1.2-1.6 in). If your rider sag is less than 30 mm (1.2 in) then your preload is set too high. Turn the adjuster to a lower setting. If your rider sag is more than 40 mm (1.6 in) then your preload is set too low. Turn the adjuster to a higher setting.
Static sag is the difference between L1 and L2, this should be approximately 5-10 mm (0.2-0.4 in). If you have more than more than 10 mm (0.4 in) then you may need a stiffer spring. If your static sag is less than 5 mm (0.2 in) or you don’t have any static sag then your spring may be too hard.
A. Yes. Owners report that it cuts in between 11250-11500 rpm. Normally a rev limiter is placed in the electronic circuitry to prevent the engine from over-revving. At the pre-set rpm (11250-11500 rpm) the rev limiter engages and interrupts the signal to the coil, alternating on/off, slowing the firing sequence, and preventing the engine from over-revving.
A. The Ninja 650R (ER-6F) and ER-6N sold in most parts of the world runs a completely open loop fuel injection (FI) system, this is a fully mapped based spark and fuel control system with no oxygen sensor monitoring the exhaust gases. The fuel system’s electronic control unit (ECU) refers to a lookup table (called a map) thousand of times a second to pull up a predetermined value for firing the fuel injectors. This map is based on the current state of all the input sensors and includes:
1. Main throttle sensor.
2. Inlet air pressure sensor.
3. Inlet air temperature sensor.
4. Water temperature sensor.
5. Crankshaft sensor.
6. Speed sensor.
7. Vehicle down sensor.
8. Sub-throttle sensor.
Below about 3000 RPM both the duty cycle and the frequency of the injector firing is constantly updated by the ECU, above this RPM only the duty cycle changes.
Because there is no feedback from the exhaust to the ECU, the ECU cannot add or subtract “trim” (read more or less fuel on the fly). The predetermined injector open time remains as programmed. This program cannot be changed as the OEM ECU is sealed by Kawasaki and there is no provision for updates.
This is where the Power Commander (PCIII), Techlusion (TFi), Cobra (Fi-2000) or the Rapid Bike units come in. The injector drive signal from the ECU is intercepted and modified according to the new parameters in the unit’s own map and throttle position.
This map can be software setup like the PCIII and download via a USB connection to the unit or have a trim-pot setup like the Techlusion unit. Either way it is critically important that the proper map is used or trim-pots are set correctly. Maps can be downloaded from Power Commander (DynoJet) or a custom map created by running the bike on a dynamometer. Maps for particular exhaust combinations or setups are often passed from owner to owner.
A. Idle warm mode (increased RPM at idle) is controlled by the ECU, the ECU monitors output from the Coolant Temperature Sensor and increases engine RPM until the engine is warm.
A. The following appeared on the Ninja 650R and ER-6N Forum and is repeated here:
Materials needed:
1. Motorcycle engine oil.
2. Commercial gasoline stabilizer.
3. Full tank of gas mixed with above stabilizer.
4. Commercial vinyl and rubber preservative (silicone free).
5. 1 amp battery charger (Battery Tender brand or similar).
6. Motorcycle cover (a good quality cover breathes and will not trap moisture).
7. WD-40 or any moisture displacing lubricant.
Storage steps:
First, take your bike out for the last ride of the season. The ride should be long enough to get the engine up to operating temperature. On your way back home fill the fuel tank as much as possible. Only then can you start the steps below.
Thoroughly clean the entire motorcycle, you'll thank yourself when spring arrives!
Be sure all traces of moisture are gone, don't store a wet bike.
Place the motorcycle on rear and front stands, or centre stand if you have one. If you don't have a front stand, you can use two jacking stands to prop the forks up. The goal is to get the bike level and the tires off the ground. You don't want flat spots in your tires come spring. If you don't have stands, just remember to move the bike a few feet everyone few weeks over the winter this is so it's not always sitting on the same spot on the tire.
With the gas tank full, mix the gasoline stabilizer into the fuel tank using the amount of stabilizer recommended by its manufacturer. Un-stabilized fuel will form "gum" or "varnish" deposits that will plug the fuel system and Fuel Injection passageways. Be sure the fuel tank is as full as possible to eliminate any air space and to reduce the chances of the fuel becoming contaminated or the inside of your tank rusting.
To protect the top end of the engine from rust and corrosion run the engine for a few minutes to get the stabilized fuel through the system. Then, remove the spark plugs and pour 1 to 2 tablespoons of motorcycle engine oil into each spark plug hole. Reinstall the spark plugs. Do not reinstall the spark plug caps at this time. Turn the engine over a few times with the electric starter. Now reinstall the spark plug caps.
First, take your bike out for the last ride of the season. The ride should be long enough to get the engine up to operating temperature. On your way back home fill the fuel tank as much as possible. Only then can you start the steps below.
Thoroughly clean the entire motorcycle, you'll thank yourself when spring arrives!
Be sure all traces of moisture are gone, don't store a wet bike.
Place the motorcycle on rear and front stands, or centre stand if you have one. If you don't have a front stand, you can use two jacking stands to prop the forks up. The goal is to get the bike level and the tires off the ground. You don't want flat spots in your tires come spring. If you don't have stands, just remember to move the bike a few feet everyone few weeks over the winter this is so it's not always sitting on the same spot on the tire.
With the gas tank full, mix the gasoline stabilizer into the fuel tank using the amount of stabilizer recommended by its manufacturer. Un-stabilized fuel will form "gum" or "varnish" deposits that will plug the fuel system and Fuel Injection passageways. Be sure the fuel tank is as full as possible to eliminate any air space and to reduce the chances of the fuel becoming contaminated or the inside of your tank rusting.
To protect the top end of the engine from rust and corrosion run the engine for a few minutes to get the stabilized fuel through the system. Then, remove the spark plugs and pour 1 to 2 tablespoons of motorcycle engine oil into each spark plug hole. Reinstall the spark plugs. Do not reinstall the spark plug caps at this time. Turn the engine over a few times with the electric starter. Now reinstall the spark plug caps.
Note: Some would argue that pouring oil down the spark plug holes to coat the cylinder is unneeded work. If it’s possible do it, it won’t hurt anything. If you can't get to them, or don't have time, or just too lazy, don't worry about it – it’s not super important unless you're storing the bike for over 12 months.
While the engine is still warm, drain the old engine oil and drain the oil filter, replace the filter empty. There’s no need for a new filter until spring. With fresh oil, refill the crankcase with the recommended amount just as though you were doing a regular oil change. Do not fill all the way up to the filler cap hole. This step is unnecessary and could harm your engine if you happened to start it in the spring with too much oil.
Remove the battery. Make sure to remove the negative terminal before the positive terminal. This will remove the battery from the circuit and will eliminate the chance of grounding the positive terminal with the screwdriver or wrench. Clean the outside of the battery with a mild baking soda and water solution and dry it carefully, the baking soda neutralizes the acids. Be sure not to get any solution inside the cells. Remove any corrosion from the terminals and from the wiring harness connections. Store the battery in a room that stays above freezing, off the floor, and preferably on a wooden shelf.
Recharge the battery with a one amp battery charger once a month. If the battery is not kept full charged, it may become permanently damaged and will have to be replaced.
Spray all of the vinyl and rubber parts with a rubber preservative. Be careful not to get anything on the tread of your tires, or on your brake rotors or pads.
Spray the unpainted surfaces of the motorcycle with the rust preservative (WD-40).
Spray WD-40 into the end of the exhaust pipe to coat the insides. Try to spray enough to reach the collectors (usually lowest points of the pipe) where moisture might collect and sit over the winter.
Stuff a rag into the exhaust pipe to prevent bugs or small woodland creatures from making your bike home.
You may want to cover the pipe with a plastic bag and tape it off or use an elastic band.
If possible, stuff a rag into the inlet of your air-box, air-dams, ram air holes and vent apertures, whatever. Again, we don't want any squirrels or excess moisture getting in there.
Cover the bike with a breathable bike cover. This is a good idea even if you will be storing the bike indoors as it prevents accidental scratches and dust.
Do not start the engine during the storage period.
While the engine is still warm, drain the old engine oil and drain the oil filter, replace the filter empty. There’s no need for a new filter until spring. With fresh oil, refill the crankcase with the recommended amount just as though you were doing a regular oil change. Do not fill all the way up to the filler cap hole. This step is unnecessary and could harm your engine if you happened to start it in the spring with too much oil.
Remove the battery. Make sure to remove the negative terminal before the positive terminal. This will remove the battery from the circuit and will eliminate the chance of grounding the positive terminal with the screwdriver or wrench. Clean the outside of the battery with a mild baking soda and water solution and dry it carefully, the baking soda neutralizes the acids. Be sure not to get any solution inside the cells. Remove any corrosion from the terminals and from the wiring harness connections. Store the battery in a room that stays above freezing, off the floor, and preferably on a wooden shelf.
Recharge the battery with a one amp battery charger once a month. If the battery is not kept full charged, it may become permanently damaged and will have to be replaced.
Spray all of the vinyl and rubber parts with a rubber preservative. Be careful not to get anything on the tread of your tires, or on your brake rotors or pads.
Spray the unpainted surfaces of the motorcycle with the rust preservative (WD-40).
Spray WD-40 into the end of the exhaust pipe to coat the insides. Try to spray enough to reach the collectors (usually lowest points of the pipe) where moisture might collect and sit over the winter.
Stuff a rag into the exhaust pipe to prevent bugs or small woodland creatures from making your bike home.
You may want to cover the pipe with a plastic bag and tape it off or use an elastic band.
If possible, stuff a rag into the inlet of your air-box, air-dams, ram air holes and vent apertures, whatever. Again, we don't want any squirrels or excess moisture getting in there.
Cover the bike with a breathable bike cover. This is a good idea even if you will be storing the bike indoors as it prevents accidental scratches and dust.
Do not start the engine during the storage period.
Q. I have heard that the Kawasaki Ninja 650R (ER-6F) and ER6N engine has a 180 degree crankshaft, what does this mean?
A. Correct. The engine fitted to this bike is of a parallel twin design with a 180 degree crankshaft. What this means is that both cylinders are located alongside each other and the crankshaft is designed in such away that each piston stroke is 180 degrees apart.
Another way of explaining it is to say that there are two power strokes, 180 degrees apart followed by 540 degrees of crankshaft rotation prior to the next power stoke. The primary purpose of this is to minimize vibration and this is achieved because the pistons are always working in opposition, one reaching TDC while the other is reaching the bottom and vice versa. Consequently, the deceleration and acceleration events of each piston are effectively cancelled out by those of the other. Ditto for the effect of the two sets of crankshaft counterweights, which are also phased 180 degrees from one another.
Nevertheless, a 180-degree parallel-Twin does emit some vibration; this is caused by what is called a "rocking couple." Imagine what happens when one piston-the right one, say-reaches TDC and the other reaches BTC. The abrupt de-acceleration of the right piston tries to yank the engine upward, while the de-acceleration of the left one wants to yank it downward. The net result is that the engine wants to rotate counter-clockwise along a longitudinal axis. Then, 180-degrees of crank rotation later, the reverse happens and the engine tries to rotate clockwise when the right piston hits bottom and the left one reaches TDC. So, twice in each full crank-shaft revolution, the entire engine tries to rotate in this manner, first in one direction and then in the other. The result is a high frequency oscillation, which is the buzzing you feel in the Ninja 650R.
Q. I have heard about a possible issue with the frame (chassis) on the Ninja 650R (ER-6F and ER-6N), what is this all about?
A. Some owners in both the USA and Europe have reported cracks to the frame in the area of the R/H forward engine mount. The cause of the fault appears to be that the distance between the upper motor mounts is too far apart during manufacture and when the motor is fitted and the mount bolts tightened excessive side loads is produced causing the right hand forward frame mount weld to crack under use. Kawasaki is carrying out a weld repair and repainting or replacing affected frames and shimming any gap so that any side load is removed. For 2007 models onward the welding on the R/H forward engine mount appears to have been improved.
Latest details including pictures are located in a PDF file on the homepage of this website. Owners are urged to monitor this area and contact Kawasaki or their dealer should any faults become evident.
A. Some owners have experienced as high as 53-54 miles per US gallon (MPG US). This equates to 64-65 miles per imperial gallon (MPG IMP) or 22.5-23 kilometres per litre (km/l). A lot will depend on your style of riding, for example hard riding with rapid acceleration will have a negative impact on your fuel economy. Another factor is the type of riding, a lot of open road steady throttle riding will certainly increase your MPG. Kawasaki claim 60 MPG (72 MPG IMP or 25.5 km/l) and a few owners have claimed as high as 70 MPG US (84 MPG IMP or 29.5 km/l) but these are not the norm.
My own experience has been a high of 20 km/l (47 MPG US or 56 MPG IMP) and a low of 18 km/l (42 MPG US or 51 MPG IMP). Mind you I have a heavy right hand!
A. The total fuel tank capacity on the Ninja 650R (ER-6F) and ER-6N is 15.5 litres, this equates to 3.4 imperial gallons (Gal Imp) or 4.1 US gallons (Gal US). The capacity before the low fuel light will come on is (quoted by Kawasaki) 12 litres which equates to 2.6 imperial gallons or 3.2 US gallons. Therefore when the fuel light comes on steady you should have approximately 3.5 litres (0.9 Gal US or 0.8 Gal Imp) remaining. The actual distance you can travel will depend on your fuel economy. Below is a table listing the travelling distances based on varying fuel economy rates.
| Economy Rates | Main Tank | Reserve Tank | Total | |||||
| km/l | mpg US | mpg Imp | km | miles | km | miles | km | miles |
| 30 | 70 | 84 | 360 | 224 | 105 | 65 | 465 | 289 |
| 26 | 60 | 72 | 312 | 194 | 91 | 57 | 403 | 250 |
| 23 | 54 | 65 | 276 | 171 | 81 | 50 | 357 | 222 |
| 20 | 47 | 56 | 240 | 149 | 70 | 43 | 310 | 193 |
| 18 | 42 | 51 | 216 | 134 | 63 | 39 | 279 | 173 |
These figures are only a best estimate; if you don’t want to run out of fuel err on the conservative side!
Q. I noticed that there is an electrical connector (orange/black wire) under the seat on the RHS of my motorcycle which is not connected to anything. What is this for and is it OK?
A. This is the self diagnosis terminal for the Fuel Injection (FI) system. It is used to retrieve fault codes stored in the Electronic Control Unit (ECU) memory relating to the FI system. The ECU notifies the rider of troubles in the FI system by lighting the FI light (LED) on the instrument panel whenever a FI or ignition component has a fault. When this connector is grounded in a particular sequence the FI light flashes a fault code indicating the item at fault or in another mode a previous fault that is stored in the ECU memory. The fault codes can also be cleared using this connector. Consult the Service Manual or a PDF file in the Downloads area of this website for more details. Unless you have a problem with the FI system then it is best left alone.
A. In common with most Japanese motorcycles the speedo on the Ninja 650R (ER-6F) and ER-6N indicates a speed faster than the actual speed. This has been confirmed by a number of owners and although reports vary it appears that the speedo over-reads by approximately 7-9%. Testing also carried out with a GPS confirms that the odometer is accurate so the error in the speedo must be “programmed in” by Kawasaki. Speculation on why Kawasaki would do this vary from liability through to bragging rights on top speed. Below is a table with some owner’s results using a GPS.
| Speedometer | GPS | ||
| KPH | MPH | KPH | MPH |
| 64 | 40 | 60 | 38 |
| 72 | 45 | 68 | 42 |
| 80 | 50 | 74 | 46 |
| 97 | 60 | 89 | 55 |
| 113 | 70 | 103 | 64 |
| 129 | 80 | 119 | 74 |
There are a number of devices marketed to correct this problem the most well known being Speedo-Healer, another alternative is to remark the gauge face using a decal with the corrected readings.
The speedometer is a completely “electrical” system, the speed sensor is a magnetic pickup located at the engine sprocket and it measures the RPM of the gearbox output shaft and sends an electrical “signal” to both the ECU and the speedo. This signal is converted to an indicated speed. One of the problems with this system is that if you change the size either the engine or rear wheel sprocket then actual motorcycle speed will change for a given RPM but the indicated speed will remain the same. In theory the inaccuracies of the speedo system should be able to be negated or canceled out completely by changing the combination of engine and rear wheel sprockets.
The speed sensor is also used for the “positive neutral” feature of the gearbox. No rotation at the speed senor (motorcycle not moving) and only neutral and first gear can be selected.
Q. I have fitted an aftermarket exhaust to my motorcycle. Am I still covered by the Kawasaki warranty?
A. As with all modifications that you carry out to your motorcycle that are not authorised by Kawasaki, if they believe that the muffler (or any other accessory you have added) is the cause of the failure then it is likely that your warranty will be voided.
If for example you have an electrical fault and you have an aftermarket exhaust then it is unlikely you’re your warranty claim will be refused. On the other hand if you have an engine related fault like a burnt valve then you fitting of an aftermarket slip-on or a Power Commander ECU module may be seen by Kawasaki to be related and your warranty claim may be void.
This unauthorised part could include oil filters or other non OEM parts fitted during a service check if Kawasaki believes that the unauthorised part caused the failure.
Exercise some caution and discretion in this area, every country has different laws relating to consumer warranty issues and at the end of the day you may have to undertake expensive court action to reach a settlement when on the surface your warranty claim may appear clear cut to you.
Q. If I carry out my own maintenance and service checks on my motorcycle am I still covered by the Kawasaki warranty?
A. The warranty states that unless the motorcycle is serviced by a Kawasaki authorised dealer then the warranty is void. However the owners manual (MOM) details those items required to be serviced by a dealer so it is logical to assume that if a procedure for a particular maintenance item is listed and it is not designated as a dealer item then you should be able to carry out the work yourself without voiding the warranty.
Likewise there is also a school of thought that Kawasaki are not legally allowed to refuse a warranty unless it can be proved that the specific fault that requires warranty attention was caused by an unauthorised person (where unauthorised can mean you in your garage).
In the USA the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act provides a level of protection to the purchaser and it prohibits “tie-in coverage” such as a dealer only service or the requirement for a specific oil or filter.
However Magnuson-Moss does not completely hook Kawasaki for all problems that occur within the warranty period. There are a number of requirements that Kawasaki can hold you to. These include an adherence to the prescribed maintenance schedule. So if at 7500 miles the maintenance schedule calls for a vacuum sync and your warranty claim is for rough running then you will likely be asked to prove that you carried it out.
There are also loopholes covering abuse and neglect and you do need to be competent in the work you have carried out and know what you're doing (as I'm sure you do). Kawasaki can't be held responsible for negligence on your part.
So if you choose to do your own maintenance I would suggest that you document all the work you have done to it. Log all maintenance you or a third party have performed on the bike, date, mileage etc, and keep all receipts for oil, filters or any other parts used.
There has been a case where one owner was denied warranty on major engine work because he could not show proof of 600 mile service. He apparently did carry out the service himself and used genuine Kawasaki parts but retained no receipts.
If you choose to do your own maintenance I would suggest that you document all the work you have done. Log all maintenance in the Warranty Book you or a third party have performed on the bike, date, mileage etc, sign it yourself and keep all receipts for oil, filters or any other parts used.
Again exercise some caution and discretion in this area, every country has different laws relating to consumer warranty issues and at the end of the day you may have to undertake expensive court action to reach a settlement when on the surface your warranty claim may appear clear cut to you.
Remember that a couple of hundred dollars spent on a service by a Kawasaki dealer may not look like much when faced with a couple of thousand dollars in repairs.
A. As this is an “international” website and insurance coverage varies from one country to another and for that matter inside the USA from one state to the next, it is virtually impossible to fully answer this question here. However a member of Ninja650.com (Harloch) is involved in the insurance industry and recently published an excellent guide to interrupting the jargon in the USA. As this may help some owners I have repeated it below:
As I'm sure you know, there is no magical "Full Coverage" button or box to check when you purchase insurance. Now coverage and limits and etc vary from state to state, so this is just a general guide.
Basic Liability/Liability Only:
PD - "Property Damage": This covers anything you break, vehicle, fixed, or otherwise, if you are at fault for an accident.
Basic Liability/Liability Only:
PD - "Property Damage": This covers anything you break, vehicle, fixed, or otherwise, if you are at fault for an accident.
BI - "Bodily Injury": Covers Injuries of other people (as well as any people riding with you) in the event of an at-fault accident.
Uninsured/Underinsured Motorist:
UM - "Uninsured/Underinsure Motorist": This coverage will cover your/your passenger's injuries if you are hit by someone without insurance or it's a hit & run, etc.
Uninsured/Underinsured Motorist:
UM - "Uninsured/Underinsure Motorist": This coverage will cover your/your passenger's injuries if you are hit by someone without insurance or it's a hit & run, etc.
UMPD - "Uninsured/Underinsured Property Damage": Same as UM, except this covers any damages to your vehicle and other property damaged as a result of an accident involving an underinsured/uninsured motorist. So lets say your bike is hit in a parking lot and someone drives off. Get a police report filed, and report to your carrier. It will not go down against your policy (usually, every company/state is different) and increase your rates.
Comprehensive AND Collision aka "Full Coverage":
Comprehensive AND Collision aka "Full Coverage":
*Please note that you can buy Comp. without buying Coll. However, by having comp only, you do not technically have "full coverage."*
COMP - "Comprehensive": Comprehensive covers all damages to your vehicle caused by uncontrollable circumstances such as: Deer hits, road debris (sometimes), running over a dog, storm damage (hail, tornado, hurricanes). This coverage also covers THEFT, VANDALISM, and FIRE. The last three forms of loss will usually be HEAVILY INVESTIGATED by the insurance company (especially mine) as they are the most commonly used forms of insurance fraud, which is a FELONY and costs the industry about 100 million dollars each year (this is money being paid to crooks).
COLL - "Collision": This covers, essentially, driver error. If you hit a pole, if you slide off the road, if you lay your bike down, if you are responsible for an accident. This is what covers it. If you rear-end someone, your PD will fix there car, your Coll. will fix yours. If you do not have Coll., you are not getting anything fixed by your insurance company. If you do not have UMPD (which generally has lower deductible), this will cover damages that would normally fall under its category. Most lien holders require you to have Coll coverage on your bike/car. You cannot get Col. w/o Comp. This is why having both is called "Full coverage."
Now, there are many other forms of insurance coverage, such as:
MEDPAY: This covers the driver's injuries if they are hurt in an at-fault accident. It will also be primary coverage for your passengers unless the bills exceed your limits, then their injuries will roll over in to BI.
Now, there are many other forms of insurance coverage, such as:
MEDPAY: This covers the driver's injuries if they are hurt in an at-fault accident. It will also be primary coverage for your passengers unless the bills exceed your limits, then their injuries will roll over in to BI.
PIP - "Personal Injury Protection" (not in every state): This is pretty much the same as MEDPAY, but with higher limits. This guarantees the insured driver has medical coverage as a result of an accident. Again, it is a state decision to require PIP or not. Insurance companies usually don't offer PIP unless the state mandates it. This coverage is also sometimes called "Not-At-Fault" coverage is it will still cover you even if you aren't at fault the same way BI coverage would.
RENTAL: If you are at fault for an accident and need to get your car/bike fixed. (COLL), you will not be given a rental unless you purchase rental coverage. If you aren't at fault, the other carrier will pay for your rental or your Comp/UM will cover it. Not every company includes rental with Comp, remember that.
MEDPAY, RENTAL, and PIP are not part of the "Full Coverage" checklist, they are optional. If you have/want "full coverage," you will need the following:
PD, BI, COMP, COLL UM/UMPD are not required for full coverage as their coverage will also go under COLL or MEDPAY/PIP if needed. UM and UMPD do have lower deductibles and will help keep you from having to claim something under COLL. Filing a claim under COLL will list an at-fault accident for you if the company pays out. Every time. You can't argue this.
I STRONGLY recommend getting UM/UMPD on everything you own, it doesn't cost much and it can save you down the road. MEDPAY isn't necessarily needed if you have good health insurance. Also, don't skimp on your insurance limits. DO NOT just buy the minimum. If you hit a Lexus and have $5k worth of PD coverage and cause $11k worth of damage to it, guess where the other $6k comes from? Yes, you. And if you don't have COLL and owe money on your vehicle, you just put yourself in a good position to be hurting financially and legally.
I didn’t understand a word he said (but thanks again, Harloch) but if you needed too, then I hope it helped.
MEDPAY, RENTAL, and PIP are not part of the "Full Coverage" checklist, they are optional. If you have/want "full coverage," you will need the following:
PD, BI, COMP, COLL UM/UMPD are not required for full coverage as their coverage will also go under COLL or MEDPAY/PIP if needed. UM and UMPD do have lower deductibles and will help keep you from having to claim something under COLL. Filing a claim under COLL will list an at-fault accident for you if the company pays out. Every time. You can't argue this.
I STRONGLY recommend getting UM/UMPD on everything you own, it doesn't cost much and it can save you down the road. MEDPAY isn't necessarily needed if you have good health insurance. Also, don't skimp on your insurance limits. DO NOT just buy the minimum. If you hit a Lexus and have $5k worth of PD coverage and cause $11k worth of damage to it, guess where the other $6k comes from? Yes, you. And if you don't have COLL and owe money on your vehicle, you just put yourself in a good position to be hurting financially and legally.
I didn’t understand a word he said (but thanks again, Harloch) but if you needed too, then I hope it helped.
A. Select CLOCK mode using the MODE button, pushed the RESET button for more than two seconds. Both the hour and minute display start flashing.
In the HOUR/MINUTE setting mode, press the RESET button again to affect the HOUR setting mode.
The hour display flashes on the display. Press the MODE button to set the hour. In the HOUR setting mode, press the RESET button to affect the MINUTE setting mode.
The minute display flashes on the display. Press the MODE button to set the minute. In the MINUTE setting mode, press the RESET button to
return to the HOUR/MINUTE setting mode. Press the MODE button to complete the time setting process.
The clock starts counting the seconds as soon as the MODE button is pressed.
In the HOUR/MINUTE setting mode, press the RESET button again to affect the HOUR setting mode.
The hour display flashes on the display. Press the MODE button to set the hour. In the HOUR setting mode, press the RESET button to affect the MINUTE setting mode.
The minute display flashes on the display. Press the MODE button to set the minute. In the MINUTE setting mode, press the RESET button to
return to the HOUR/MINUTE setting mode. Press the MODE button to complete the time setting process.
The clock starts counting the seconds as soon as the MODE button is pressed.
Q. I have fitted an aftermarket exhaust (slip-on) and I’m getting a lot of popping (and backfire) when I back off the throttle and accelerate. I have been told to “plug” the Pair Valve, what is this?
A. The purpose of the Pair Valve is to allow fresh air from the airbox into the exhaust system at the exhaust port, this aids ignition of unburned fuel vapour before it leaves the exhaust pipes when you change down or back off the throttle. A high flow aftermarket exhaust (slip-on) allows this to now be heard.
The Pair Valve System on this bike comprises two valves, an electrically operated Air Switching Valve located on the airbox controlled by the ECU and a reed valve arrangement on the engine which Kawasaki term the Air Suction Valve. The two are connected by a length of black plastic hose. To “plug the Pair Valve” remove this black plastic hose and fit secure plugs (correctly sized plastic caps or an alternative blockage) to the outlet of Air Switching Valve and the inlet of the Air Suction Valve.
Some owners disconnect the electrical connector to the Air Switching Valve, however if you do this you will need to short out the connector pins with a piece of wire or the FI light on the instrument cluster will illuminate. Alternatively you can just leave it connected as it will continue to operate and serve no purpose.
The Pair Valve System on this bike comprises two valves, an electrically operated Air Switching Valve located on the airbox controlled by the ECU and a reed valve arrangement on the engine which Kawasaki term the Air Suction Valve. The two are connected by a length of black plastic hose. To “plug the Pair Valve” remove this black plastic hose and fit secure plugs (correctly sized plastic caps or an alternative blockage) to the outlet of Air Switching Valve and the inlet of the Air Suction Valve.
Some owners disconnect the electrical connector to the Air Switching Valve, however if you do this you will need to short out the connector pins with a piece of wire or the FI light on the instrument cluster will illuminate. Alternatively you can just leave it connected as it will continue to operate and serve no purpose.
A. Kawasaki now sells a Short (-1 inch – P/N K53001-189) or a Tall (+1 inch – P/N K53001-188) seat, these are an optional accessory and need to be purchased from your Kawasaki Dealer or an accessory retailer. Unfortunately these are not cheap at over 400.00 US dollars.
There are other alternatives; most popular is a shortened rear shock absorber. The benefit of a shortened (or lengthened) shock is that that this can be made to order and to a certain extent the height can be tailored to the owner. Another is a “Lowering Link”, this is a small device fitted between the existing shock absorber and frame lowering the ride height. See the Homepage for links to manufacturers of both.
A cost effective way of slightly lowering the seat height is to drop the front forks through the triple clamps so that the forks sits approximately 10mm above the top of the Steering Stem Head, this will decrease the seat height by about 5mm. This setup is actually detailed in the Kawasaki Service Manual as the correct setting for the forks even though all bikes are delivered with the forks flush with the Steering Stem Head. Another benefit of this setup is that some owners report improved handling.
Yet another alternative is to consider modifying the existing seat, companies such as Spencer Motorcycle Seats, Bagster and Corbin either modify your existing seat or custom build a complete replacement to your specification. The benefit of this approach is increased comfort as the consensus of many owners is that the stock seat lacks comfort and is of a very cheap build quality. See the Homepage for links to these manufacturers or the How do I do that and Modifications page for instructions on doing it yourself.
My solution to the comfort issue has been to add an AirHawk seat cushion and a sheepskin seat cover.
There are other alternatives; most popular is a shortened rear shock absorber. The benefit of a shortened (or lengthened) shock is that that this can be made to order and to a certain extent the height can be tailored to the owner. Another is a “Lowering Link”, this is a small device fitted between the existing shock absorber and frame lowering the ride height. See the Homepage for links to manufacturers of both.
A cost effective way of slightly lowering the seat height is to drop the front forks through the triple clamps so that the forks sits approximately 10mm above the top of the Steering Stem Head, this will decrease the seat height by about 5mm. This setup is actually detailed in the Kawasaki Service Manual as the correct setting for the forks even though all bikes are delivered with the forks flush with the Steering Stem Head. Another benefit of this setup is that some owners report improved handling.
Yet another alternative is to consider modifying the existing seat, companies such as Spencer Motorcycle Seats, Bagster and Corbin either modify your existing seat or custom build a complete replacement to your specification. The benefit of this approach is increased comfort as the consensus of many owners is that the stock seat lacks comfort and is of a very cheap build quality. See the Homepage for links to these manufacturers or the How do I do that and Modifications page for instructions on doing it yourself.
My solution to the comfort issue has been to add an AirHawk seat cushion and a sheepskin seat cover.
A. If the FI (Fuel Injection) light illuminates and the engine still runs then it’s probably OK to ride. If the ECU senses a critical error it will not allow the bike to start or keep running. In some cases, it may enter a "limp home" mode where you can at least keep going to get back home. The bike will feel underpowered but still get you there. Otherwise the FI light is just to provide information that one of the sensors or ECU is out of range, but the bike will keep running normally.
If the FI light illuminates consult your Kawasaki Dealer or trained mechanic. Alternatively you can use the “How to Read the Fuel Injection (FI) Light Codes” PDF file located on the Homepage or the Service Manual to diagnose and repair the fault yourself.
If the FI light illuminates consult your Kawasaki Dealer or trained mechanic. Alternatively you can use the “How to Read the Fuel Injection (FI) Light Codes” PDF file located on the Homepage or the Service Manual to diagnose and repair the fault yourself.
A. Your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) is a unique 17 digit number stamped on the steering head of the bike and is best explained by the example below:
| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 13 | 14 | 15 | 16 | 17 |
| J | K | A | E | X | E | A | 1 | 1 | 6 | A | 0 | 0 | 7 | 0 | 9 | 0 |
- J = Country of manufacture (Japan)
- K = Company (Kawasaki)
- A = Vehicle type (motorcycle)
- E = Model number (Ninja 650R or ER-6F – EX model)
- X = Model number (Ninja 650R or ER-6F – EX model)
- E = Model type designator
- A = Model type designator
- 1 = Model type designator
- 1 = Check digit
- 6 = Model year (6 = 2006, 7 = 2007, 8 = 2008, 9 = 2009)
- A = Assembly code
- 0 = Six digit serial number
- 0 = Six digit serial number
- 7 = Six digit serial number
- 0 = Six digit serial number
- 9 = Six digit serial number
- 0 = Six digit serial number
The first three characters uniquely identify the manufacturer of the vehicle using the World Manufacturer Identifier (WMI) code. In this case the 1st digit is “J” for Japan as the country of manufacture and the 2nd is a “K” for Kawasaki. The 3rd is used by Kawasaki as a vehicle category identifier, “A” for motorcycle.
The 4th through 9th positions in the VIN are the Vehicle Descriptor Section (VDS). This is used by Kawasaki to identify the vehicle type and information on the model, and the body style. Each manufacturer has a unique system for using this field.
The 4th and 5th positions are the model, in this case “EX” designating a Ninja 650R (ER-6F) or will be an “ER” for the ER-6N.
The 6th through 8th digit positions are unique to Kawasaki and from the information available would appear to indicate vehicle category, engine type and displacement, model variation and sequence.
The 9th position is always a mathematically calculated "check digit" that looks at all other positions of the full VIN number and performs a mathematical formula (multiplying, adding, and then dividing according to a pre-determined routine). This process insures that transcribing errors and forgery efforts can be identified more easily.
The 10th through 17th positions are used as the Vehicle Identifier Section (VIS). This is used by the Kawasaki to identify the individual motorcycle in question.
The model year is identified in the 10th digit position as follows:
2006 = 6
2007 = 7
2008 = 8
2009 = 9
2010 = A
The 11th position of the VIN number is Kawasaki’s assembly code and is used to identify the assembly plant.
A = Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Akashi, Japan.
B = Kawasaki Motors Manufacturing Corp, Lincoln, Nebraska, USA and Kymco for Kawasaki, Taiwan.
C = Kawasaki Motors Corp, Philippines.
D = Kawasaki Motors Enterprise Co. Ltd., Thailand.
G = Modenas, Malaysia.
K = P.T. Kawasaki Motor Indonesia, Jakarta.
And now we're down to the last 6 positions of the VIN number, this is the unique, sequential "serial number" of each individual bike. Every bike has a serial number that is different than every other one ever produced for your model and year bike.
Q. I have noticed that there are two electrical connectors under the seat that are not connected to anything. What are they for and is this OK?
A. The loose single wire coloured orange/black is referred to in the Wiring Diagram as the Self Diagnosis Terminal and as the name implies forms part of the trouble shooting procedure for the Fuel Injection (FI) system. Briefly when this connector is grounded in a particular sequence the FI light flashes a fault code indicating the item at fault or in another mode a previous fault that is stored in the ECU memory.
The other mounted connector has four wires coloured Light Blue/Black, Black/Yellow, Brown/White and Light Green/White (six wires on ABS models). Kawasaki refers to this plug as the Self Diagnosis System Connector and although no indication of its purpose appears anywhere in either the Ninja 650R (ER-6F) or the ER-6N Service Manual it would appear that this connector is used in conjunction with a dealer tool called the Kawasaki Diagnostic System (KDS).
The KDS 3.0 (until 2007 KDS 2.0) is a software program run from a computer in conjunction with cables and a adapter which are connected to the bike via the Self Diagnosis System Connector. The program can be used by the dealer to do the following:
1. Display ECU and model information.
The other mounted connector has four wires coloured Light Blue/Black, Black/Yellow, Brown/White and Light Green/White (six wires on ABS models). Kawasaki refers to this plug as the Self Diagnosis System Connector and although no indication of its purpose appears anywhere in either the Ninja 650R (ER-6F) or the ER-6N Service Manual it would appear that this connector is used in conjunction with a dealer tool called the Kawasaki Diagnostic System (KDS).
The KDS 3.0 (until 2007 KDS 2.0) is a software program run from a computer in conjunction with cables and a adapter which are connected to the bike via the Self Diagnosis System Connector. The program can be used by the dealer to do the following:
1. Display ECU and model information.
2. Perform system diagnostics.
3. Display, save, and print service data.
4. Actuate individual injectors and other actuators.
5. Display, save, and print real-time sensor values.
6. Display and print graphs (real-time sensor values).
7. Erase stored service data.
On ABS models KDS 3.0 can be used to diagnose ABS faults and clear stored data in the ABS ECU. The KDS 3.0 unit can be purchased through your dealer or online and the kit comprises:
KDS 3.0 Adapter – (P/N 57001-1648) – Cost approx US$1,040.00
KDS 3.0 Software CD-ROM – (P/N 57001-1650) – Cost approx US$65.00
Comm. Cable 8-pin – (P/N 57001-1649) – Cost approx US$55.00
Comm. Cable 4-pin – (P/N 57001-1688) – Cost approx US$55.00
USB Cable – (P/N C57001-0017) – Cost approx US$20.00
KDS 3.0 User Manual – (P/N 99929-0154-02) - Cost approx US$9.00
In some countries a restriction on engine horsepower (33 hp) is required for new riders. Information is sketchy but the restrictor modification appears to be two parts, an electrical modification utilising the Self Diagnosis System Connector and a screw restricting full rotation of the pulley at the throttle body. Further information is located on the How To page.
De-restricting is explained by a post on one of the forums:
“The ER-6 Restrictor from Kawasaki has a small connector and one small lead shorting two connectors, one that goes back to the ECU and one that goes to the earth. It plugs into the diagnostic connector (Self Diagnosis System Connector) under the seat on the right hand side just behind the panel. It should be attached to a small welded lug on the frame. Just remove the diagnostic connector from the frame and unplug the connector with the two inch piece of lead from it. Replace the diagnostic connector (push fit) onto the welded lug on the frame. The next thing to do is to remove the hex screw from just behind the throttle pulley on the right hand side of the engine.”
Another use of the Self Diagnosis System Connector appears to be in the fitment of the Gear Indicator accessory. This item displays the gear selected on a small LED display and although it utilises the connector, how or what information or power used is not known.
A. This is one of the most common questions asked on the forums and one that almost everyone has an opinion. The Owners Manual states that the engine shouldn’t be revved after starting or in neutral and that a warm up period of two to three minutes observed. Maximum rpm whilst riding during the break in period stated as:
0-800 km (500 miles) maximum 4000 rpm
800-1600 km (500-1000 miles) maximum 6000 rpm
Naturally there are others with differing opinions running the full gambit, here are some links to the major theories:
North Texas Norton Owners Association (NTNOA)
MotoMan
Teledyne Mattituck Services
Dan’s Motorcycle Repair
J & P Cycles
I would not like to promote any theory over another, personally I was advised to “ride it like you own it without getting carried away” by the local Kawasaki dealer during break in and I pretty much did this. Fortunately I have had no problems. Generally speaking the first 80-100 km (50-60 miles) are the most important, don’t overload the engine or remain at a constant rpm for long periods, vary the speed often and slowly increase the maximum rpm over the entire break in period. The first service at 1000 km (600 miles) is very important and some owners have done this earlier than prescribed which isn’t a bad idea as a filter and oil are relatively cheap.
Unfortunately the consequences of a poor break in is poor compression, glazed bores, high oil consumption and poor fuel consumption so give careful consideration to whatever method you choose.
0-800 km (500 miles) maximum 4000 rpm
800-1600 km (500-1000 miles) maximum 6000 rpm
Naturally there are others with differing opinions running the full gambit, here are some links to the major theories:
North Texas Norton Owners Association (NTNOA)
MotoMan
Teledyne Mattituck Services
Dan’s Motorcycle Repair
J & P Cycles
I would not like to promote any theory over another, personally I was advised to “ride it like you own it without getting carried away” by the local Kawasaki dealer during break in and I pretty much did this. Fortunately I have had no problems. Generally speaking the first 80-100 km (50-60 miles) are the most important, don’t overload the engine or remain at a constant rpm for long periods, vary the speed often and slowly increase the maximum rpm over the entire break in period. The first service at 1000 km (600 miles) is very important and some owners have done this earlier than prescribed which isn’t a bad idea as a filter and oil are relatively cheap.
Unfortunately the consequences of a poor break in is poor compression, glazed bores, high oil consumption and poor fuel consumption so give careful consideration to whatever method you choose.
Mineral oil (100% petroleum based)
Semi-synthetic (a mixture of petroleum based and up to 30% synthetic)
Synthetic oil (100 % man-made oil consisting of synthesised chemical compounds)
The advantages of synthetic over mineral are stated as better high and low temperature viscosity performance, better chemical and shear stability, resistance to oxidation and thermal break-down. The chief disadvantage is that the lower friction properties of synthetic oil make it less suitable than mineral oil for engine break in. Most experts recommend running mineral oil for the break in period.
The Owners Manual and Service Manual recommends using oil grades SAE 10W-40 or 10W-50 which meet the following specs API SE, SF, SG or API SH, SJ, SL with JASO MA. A check of most automotive oils will indicate that these oils also comply with those specs. The problem with automotive oils is that nowadays oil manufacturers are often adding “friction modifiers” such as molybdenum to improve performance, unfortunately these friction modifiers interfere with the wet clutch fitted to our bike. In short it is acceptable to use automotive oils which meet the specs and do not contain friction modifiers.
Oils designed for diesel engines are in many cases suitable for use in motorcycle engines as they share many of the same lubrication requirements. Again check the specs.
In summary after the break in period there is no problem changing to synthetic oil as long as it doesn’t contain friction modifiers. From my own experience a switch to synthetic oil after break in improved the feel of the gearbox with smoother gear changes.
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ReplyDeleteI have the er650 n 2009, it will not let me set the clock, or show me the odometer, how ever I press, mode and reset,
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